The first inner-most layer

The Chemise, in one form or another has been around in various forms since the 10th century. It serves as the "undermost" garment - worn next to the body. Cut similar to a man's long undershirt, it is full, loose-fitting, and kneelength. The sleeves varied with the eras. During the 17th century, the chemise showed slightly at the neckline and sleeves, and possibly edged with lace in both locations. By the 18th and 19th century, the sleeves were short or cap-like and the neckline round (as illustrated in the image to the left). The chemsie changed very little until the early 19th century (about 1915), when it became shorter to accomodate women's shorter hemlines.

A chemise was the layer closest to the body and so served several functions. It served as a protective layer for the corset and street clothes, against perspiration and body oils, as well as adding a layer of warmth in colder weather.

"Stayed" Together with the Corset

Yes, "stays" or the cursed corset - bet you can't say that five times fast. The corset has been part of a woman's wardrobe since -- well, some say it's unknown, others say since the Egyptians. I can't confirm or deny either of those theories, but most will agree corsets were definitely in use at least from the 16th century through the late 19th/early 20th century. Although throughout history they served different purposes. There is some disagreement over that, too. Some say they were early fetish accessories while others say corsets were tortuous attempts at orthopaedics. An entire blog could be devoted to such a discussion, but since my primary goal is to share knowledge rather than to debate, I'll focus on the corset as a 19th century undergarment, or foundation garment.

Without the corset, women would have been unable to achieve the perfect hour-glass figure so prevalent thought the Victorian and Edwardian Era. Of course, the length of the corset changed to accommodate the demands of fashion. And, regardless of many misinformed individuals, women were not all vain "Scarlet O'Hares" insisting they have that 18" waist! There are many priimary source documents, Godey's and Petersons among them, which have letters from medical professionals warning women against the dangers of a corset laced too tight. If a corset is worn properly (not laced too tight), it provides great back support. I speak from experience -- I wear an authentic 19th century reproduction corset twice a week, all day, when role playing. When in my corset, I can stand for long periods of time without any back pain.

So, how'd they get that hour-glass figure?

So, here we are -- the foundation garments (or Undergarments); the secrets below the street clothes. There were about six layers below those beautiful 19th century dresses. Of course, those layers changed with the times and fashion trends, but basically, during the mid-late 19th century, the "best dressed" woman would start with a 1) chemise (similar to today's full slip, but much fuller), stockings (hand knitted cotton or wool), garders (also hand-knitted), and of course, her shoes. A woman would always try to put her shoes on BEFORE her corset (or stays) - its quite difficult to bend over to put on your shoes and tie them once you have your corset on (Trust me, I know from experience).

This photo also shows the young woman wearing a second optional layer, the drawers (crotchless for ease of taking care of private needs). Layer 3) was the corset, layer; 4) the bustle (1870's-1880's); layer 5) petticoat (s); layer 6) separate white/ivory collar and cuffs (not part of the dress, that is). Finally the seventh layer, skirt, bodice and belt (optional) attached around the waist to hold her redicule (purse). And lastly, before she stepped out the door, her hat, coat/cape or shawl, gloves and her redicule.

Mrs. Wellington's stylish dress is made of summer-weight linen. It's ruffles, flounces and bustle would have been at the height of 1876 fashion. Especially, since she has a matching hat which includes feathers and satin ribbons. Her coordinating parasol and redicule (purse) would have completed her fashionable upper middle-class ensemble. It would have been (as was this one) designed and custom-made by a seamstress to fit her measurements. During this era in American history, there were no ready-made women's clothes or pre-made patterns such a Butterick or McCall's. The dress is actually three seperate pieces: an underskirt, an overskirt (or apron skirt) and the bodice top.

Her fashionable dress would have expressed to all, her social class status. You might be wondering how appearance alone makes such a statement? In the mid-late 19th century, linen fabric was more expensive then cotton because it had to be imported. Additionally, a dress such as this requires about 14 yards of fabric.